Daylight

5.45pm. The Sun has dropped behind the mountains to the West and there are maybe 30 minutes of light left in which to find a campsite.

I am riding through a corner of Sumaco National Park, descending through cloud forest on my way to the selba (jungle) in Eastern Ecuador, and had been enjoying the rugged forested terrain so much that I'd lost all track of time.

The road (such as it is) is cut into the side of a steep valley and so there is no flat ground either side on which to set up a tent. It is so rough and rocky that I won't be able to ride with just torchlight - it's tricky enough in daylight. I haven't seen a truck or bus for hours so probably no chance of hitching a ride. Camping on the road itself is out of the question in case any vehicles do come along. I should have stopped at the summit half an hour before, where there was a small flat that would have been ideal.

Mild panic starting to set in.

The Sun sets and it seems to be getting darker with every second. Just as I'm beginning to despair, I see a small flat on my left, overlooking the valley to the East, by now just a canvas of obscure shapes and ridgelines - I can make out the sillhouette of a large volcano in the distance. It is pretty close to the road and more conspicuous than I'd like, but it will have do in the circumstances.

I pitch the tent in the darkness. I have performed this task so many times that I could do it blindfolded. Similarly, I manage to get my dinner prepared and cooking away without the aid artificial light - it's amazing how much you can see in the darkness once your eyes are accustomed to it.

Eventually I switch on my headtorch, and see straght away that I'm not alone. There is a large spider apparently enjoying the warmth next to the stove, many small beetles are busily going about their business, and swarms of colourful moths are flitting around my head - a couple have already boiled themselves in my soup.

After dinner my thoughts turn to water. I should have enough, but it's always nice to have some in reserve. I prick my ears, and hear the faint sound of running water coming from the other side of the road. On going to investigate, I discover a small trickle of water flowing down the mountainside. Should be ok to drink. This is turning out to be a pretty good campsite after all.

Though I am still concerned that the tent is visible from the road. I doubt that there will be any ignoble persons passing by, but to be on the safe side I remove the reflective guy-lines and hope they won't be needed later in the night.

5am. Suffocating heat. The equatorial Sun has risen and is now cooking me alive inside my warm sleeping bag. Half-asleep, I quickly fumble around to unzip myself and get outside, where I am greeted by the sight of the sun rising above the volcano, and the mist clearing to reveal an immense expanse of forest descending toward the selba in the distance. I can't find any shade from the intense Sun so, after a quick breakfast and a wash from the trickle of water across the road, I am on my way again.

Twelve hours of daylight left in which to find my next resting place.