To be honest, I hadn't been all enthusiastic about continuing when leaving England after my few weeks of rest there, when previously during this trip I'd always been itching to get back on the bike after much shorter breaks. Somehow I thought I'd get my enthusiasm back after a few days.
But that morning, despite the glorious Autumn weather and the picturesque mountains all around me, I couldn't even muster the enthusiasm to ride the next 100kms to Grindelwald, where I'd arranged to meet some friends the next day. I went to the station and took a train.
So, after meeting up with Martin & Paola and spending a pleasant weekend hiking with them and their friends, staying overnight in their cabin and being treated to a traditional fondue, I returned to Grindelwald and checked into a mountain lodge for a week to give myself time to come to terms with my decision, and to reflect on 16 incredible months of adventure. While other guests went out hiking, paragliding, canyoning, biking and climbing in the mountains, I was, for once, more than content to gaze out at the pine forests, 4,000m peaks and glaciers from a comfy chair.
Looking through photos and reading my journal, I tried to distil some of the highlights. It wasn't easy, but here goes.
Most overwhelming natural beauty
Without a doubt, the frailejon-covered paramo of the El Angel Ecological Reserve - Bitterly cold, but truly amazing. Coming face to face with a great horned owl was icing on the cake.
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| From Ecuador 1 |
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| From Ecuador 1 |
And an honourable mention for Perito Moreno Glacier in Patagonia - After the hoards and their tour buses had left, I sat alone late into the night entranced by the moonlight shimmering on the ice-blue behemouth, with the constant thunder from car-sized chunks of it calving off into the turquoise lake below.
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| From Patagonia |
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| From Patagonia |
Greatest challenge
The crossing from Chile to Patagonia via Lago Desierto - Having to push 40kg of bike and gear for 15 km up a steep, muddy horse track, crossing fast-flowing ice-cold rivers, not knowing if the ferry would be operating at the other end or whether I'd be able to find food there.
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| From Patagonia |
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| From Patagonia |
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| From Patagonia |
Most fun
Cusco, Cusco, Cusco - I don't know whether it was because of all the great people I met, or meeting up with friends and family from home, or the fact that it was the festive season, but my six weeks in Cusco were a much needed and hugely fun break from the bike (apart from getting giardia and bronchitis) .
Scariest moments
Very few. Quito, where I saw and heard of so many foreigners being violently attacked and robbed in the few days I was there that I couldn't leave fast enough - a shame because it was a treasure trove of Andean/folk music.
Oh, and running out of food and water crossing a salt lake in northern Argentina, and then having to climb over a 4,200m pass to get back to civilisation.
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| From Bolivia & NW Argentina |
Best ride
Climbing Mont Ventoux with Tom for the deciding stage of the Tour de France, being cheered on (and given beers) by the 500,000 people lining the road, the spectacular views from the top, and traffic free descent the other side at over 70kmh. The Tourmalet wasn't bad either.
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
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| From Europe 1 |
Wonderful people
What really made this journey special were the people I met along the way, their warm hospitality, and their stories. It seemed the poorer the people (and the fewer foreigners), the more welcoming and generous they were. I always felt bad about not being able to reciprocate, but hopefully it's taught be to be more open and welcoming to strangers.
My very first day in Colombia, a balmy and humid evening in Cartagena I met Elger, a busker, who taught me to play Romance Anonimo. As you can see I am still trying to perfect it over a year later.
In Medellin I was fortunate to be taken in by Nati's family and friends, who housed me, fed me, showed me around and generally looked after me for a month while I found my feet on South American soil and got to grips with Spanish.
Learning Spanish was challenging for me but worthwhile, and I was lucky to meet Erika, a Spanish teacher who gave me free lessons in exchange for my efforts to help her with her English.
All the staff at the Intiq Samana hotel in Cusco where I stayed for six weeks. They seemed to adopt me, looking after me when I was sick, and inviting me to their Christmas celebrations. And thanks to Ari, Paula, Simon, Helen and the rest of the gang, I had just about the most fun Christmas and New Year ever.
Spencer and Amy, who were great company on the Carretera Austral.
It was really nice to spend my last evening in South America with Alejandro and Pia. That steak was so good I don't know if I can ever go back to being vego.
Laura and Maria, who looked after me so well in Spain.
Paola and Martin, my wonderful Swiss friends.
And all the people who welcomed a stranger into their homes, fed me, let me camp on their land, offered me a cold beer.
Thanks finally to Dad and Teresa for giving me somewhere to take a break from the privations of life on the road.
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